Rodinal

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The illustrious Rodinal

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Rodinal (P-Aminophenol) Film Developer

Rodinal is one of my favourite developers. There's not a film I've used that doesn't develop well in this magic chemistry, even tabular grain films like Delta or TMax. It's easy to obtain and very cost effective, especially as it keeps for absolutely years even after opening. I've developed with half used Rodinal bottles over ten years old! Don't worry about the dark chocolate brown colour. This doesn't seem to effect the developer at all.

I always advise to use Rodinal at 1+50 or more dilution. I find that 1+25 is too strong and loses some of the acutance that Rodinal is known for. Also the Rodinal Glow that gives this developer some lovely contrast is better at 1+50 to 1+100.

Although it's cheap to buy it can be made at home too. The following is a common formula which is probably similar to the original Rodinal of old.

Making Rodinal

The modern Rodinal formula is a well kept secret but the more original ways to make good Rodinal at home has been known by variations of this formula.

Classic Rodinal Formula Part A
Water (80C) 375ml
P-aminophenol hydrochloride 50g
Potassium metabisulphite 150g
Water to 500ml
  • Boil the water and allow to cool for 5 minutes and decant into a pyrex chemical jug. You want it to be around 80C as p-aminophenol is hard to dissolve.
  • Add a few crystals of metabisulphite from the total called for, and dissolve.
  • Add the p-aminophenol hydrochloride slowly and fully dissolve. It takes a few minutes!
  • Add the remainder of the metabisulphite and stir for at least ten minutes
  • There may be some metabisulphite left undissolved. If this is the case then allow the liquid to cool for a while and run it through a coffee filter to remove the final crystals.
Classic Rodinal Formula Part B
Cold Water (5C) 300ml
Sodium hydroxide 200g
Water to make 400ml
  • Make sure that you prepare this B solution in a sink with a window open!
  • Wear protective rubber gloves and eye protection. If you get any hydroxide on your skin wash it off immediately!
  • Measure 300ml of very cold water into a pyrex beaker.
  • Slowly and carefully, add the sodium hydroxide a bit at a time. This chemical is extremely caustic and should not make contact with your skin or eyes or be breathed in! Considerable heat is generated while mixing this. Place in a cold water bath if required, to help speed the cooling.
  • When the sodium hydroxide has fully dissolved, make up the solution to 500ml and carefully funnel it into a plastic or glass storage bottle.

Now, create the Rodinal like developer:

  • To the cooled solution A, slowly add cooled solution B, stirring gently. An obvious precipitate will form.
  • Continue to add solution B slowly until nearly all the precipitate has gone. There should be just a few wisps of precipitate left.
  • Bottle in glass or HDPE, not PET!
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Brodie Castle - FP4 Plus 35mm - 1+50 8 minutes


Usage:

This versatile developer can be used in a variety of ways and adapts to very slow, fine grain films or to fast ISO 400 films. It develops modern tabular grain films very well too. Agitation is normally 10 seconds per minute but can be extended to 10 seconds every 2 or 3 minutes with slight increase in development time; this increases acutance. Bromide drag across your negatives is not a problem with this developer at the higher dilutions.

Film speed

The home made developer above is more like the original Rodinal than the present version sold. This means your will lose about 2/3 to 1 stop of film speed using this version. E.g. Ilford FP4+ 64EI to 80EI.


Stand development (Normal usage below)

  • For Stand Development dilute 1+100 or 1+200, develop for 1 hour. 1+200 can be developed for up to 2 hours and can give you a 1 stop speed increase!
  • To use this stand development system with Rodinal agitate for the first minute and leave to stand for the remainder of the time.
  • Maintain 18-20C in a water bath. Do not move the tank or film during the stand time.
  • Any film or film speed will do but try it on something unimportant first!
Normal Usage:

All timings 20C. Home made Rodinal can be 'hotter' than the modern version and so test for your development times as they will probably be quicker.

Here's some good generic times for starting points followed by some specific timings offered by Bob Schwalberg and Walter Johnson in Popular Photography December 1979:


Slow Films ISO 50
Dilute 1+100 and develop for 10-12 minutes.

Medium speed Films ISO 125
Low Contrast Scenes (developer increases contrast) - 1:75 12-15 mins
Medium Contrast Scenes - 1:100 12-15 mins
High Contrast Scenes (developer lowers contrast) 1:100 8-12 mins

Fast Films ISO 400
Low Contrast Scenes (developer increases contrast) 1:50 12-15 mins
Medium Contrast 1:75 12 mins
High Contrast Scenes (developer lowers contrast) 1:100 12-15 mins


Schwalberg and Johnson - minutes at 20C - * = their favourites

FP4
1+50 7-9 minutes
1+75 8-11 minutes
1+100 10-13 minutes*


PanF
1+50 5-6 minutes
1+75 7-9 minutes
1+100 9-11 minutes*

HP5
1+50 9-11 minutes
1+75 13-15 minutes*


As always test, test, test!

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Gorgeous tones and clean working developer!
News stand, Lauderdale by the Sea
Rodinal 1:50 with Borax. 14mins @ 20c
Ilford FP4+

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Straw Bales, Forres, Scotland
AGFA ( or ADOX) Rodinal and Rodinal like developers can even process high contrast films like Kodak Technical Pan. Here, the inherent contrast of Technical Pan has been tamed by AGFA Rodinal developer at 1:200 for 12 minutes. Agitation was once
every thirty seconds at 20C.

Click below to see the first Rodinal video in the series

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